Routines

Pore-less Young Lochinvar

Stately Forms, Lovely Faces, & Winning in Ballads and Boardrooms

Julie Fredrickson · 12-minute read

Welcome to another edition of Nice Packaging, the shopping blog for men and women looking to improve their appearance with practical, proven cosmetic routines.

I’m Julie Fredrickson, former beauty CEO and current venture capitalist, my philosophy to purchasing is “Protestant Work Ethic”, and my style is eccentric eosterica, so expect goofily, literate sidebars, and well merchandised routines at fair prices.

Here, you can learn a little of the business and pleasure of beauty, while getting recommendations based on my decades of experience. Today, I’ll be sharing routines for those struggling with oily, enlarged, & clogged pores, so you can find an optimal routine at a sensible price point that will help you feel like the hero in a Scottish romance.

Classical education stresses the virtues of memorization, so many a poem & epic has firmly implanted its aesthetics & rhythms in my mind. The ballad of Poor Young Lochinvar by the Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott (of Ivanhoe fame) is the fifth in his his six canto romance Marmion. Lochinvar is a young knight and “poor” in the sense that his love is betrothed to another craven bridegroom. Despite this, he gallantly sweeps his love away in an elopement.

“So stately his form, and so lovely her face,
That never a hall such a galliard did grace

So daring in love, and so dauntless in war,
Have ye e’er heard of gallant like young Lochinvar?

The tight quatrains make for an fun galloping effect when reciting, and I’ll use this as my anchor in reassuring you that anyone can memorize a simple routine for the care of their appearance to be a Pore-less Young Lochinvar or lovely faced Helen. Even when dancing an athletic galliard, or fleeing on horseback, the sweat and exertion of a passionate life doesn’t need to end in pimples or clogged pores.

Rather than attempt to improve on the synthesis capacity of artificial intelligence, I’ll simply post a synopsis of what can go wrong with facial pores and why they can look enlarged or clogged from Perplexity. Pores are gland openings (for hair follicles or sebum release) that can be stretched out as if skin isn’t cared for as it ages and is exposed to the elements.

Why pores look big

Several mechanisms make pores appear enlarged on the face, especially in the T‑zone:

  • High sebum production: Overactive sebaceous glands push out more oil, which can dilate the follicular opening over time.

  • Loss of collagen and elastin: Aging and photoaging reduce skin firmness, so the tissue around the pore slackens and the opening looks wider and more “collapsed.”

  • Genetics and skin type: Oily or thicker skin types, and inherited follicle size, naturally have more visible pores.

  • Chronic congestion: Repeated blackheads/whiteheads can stretch the pore walls, leaving them permanently more open even once cleared.

Why pores look clogged

“Clogged” pores are usually due to material filling the follicular opening and sometimes oxidizing on the surface. Common contributors are:

  • Mix of sebum + dead keratinocytes forming comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).

  • Makeup, sunscreen, or skincare that is comedogenic or not fully removed, adding to the plug.

  • Infrequent or overly harsh cleansing and lack of gentle exfoliation, which let dead cells accumulate at the surface.

  • Environmental debris (dust, pollution) adhering to sebum, making plugs look darker and more noticeable.

Factors that worsen the appearance

Several external and internal factors amplify both size and “clogged” look:

  • UV exposure: Breaks down collagen and elastin, thickens the stratum corneum, and increases oil output, all of which make pores look larger and rougher.

  • Hormonal shifts (puberty, menstrual cycle, androgens): Boost sebum production so pores appear oilier and more prominent.

  • Dehydration or barrier disruption: Dry, rough surface accentuates texture and shadowing around pores, making each opening stand out more.

Visual differences you may notice

Enlarged but relatively clear pores usually look like uniform dots or small openings that give an “orange peel” texture, especially in strong light. Clogged pores look darker or raised:

  • Blackheads: Open comedones with dark tops from oxidized melanin and sebum at the surface.

  • Whiteheads/closed comedones: Small, whitish or skin‑colored bumps where the opening is blocked by a thin layer of skin.

I’m back! What a roller coaster huh? I hope that you’ve been properly inspired by the gallant Lochinvar, as now I’m sure you will be scared into action by the AI horrors articulating the downside of oxidizing dirty skin gunk, broken down collagen, and skin barrier disruption.

But do not fret! No matter your genetics, hormones, and habits, there are topical solutions that can improve the look of your skin. So let’s learn the basics of what ingredients go into a pore fixing routine, and then afterwards present you with with three routines that are good, better, best in price point to manage your pores. As usual, I only occasionally use affiliate links, but you can subscribe as a founding member to have me build you a custom routine with samples. I promise you will like the way you look.

Exfoliating acids (BHAs and AHAs)

If you’ve had oily skin since you were Lochinvar’s age, you’ve probably been introduced to exfoliating acids like BHAs (salicylic acid) and AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, or citric acid), which are acids that either penetrate into the pore to dissolve skin and oil plugs (oil soluble BHAS) or smooth the surface texture by removing and thinning the outermost epidermal layer (alpha-hydroxy acids).

Teenage acne is often treated with salicylic acid, but we’ve come a long way from the 90s-era peeling brews laden with alcohol, witch hazel, and benzoyl peroxide. Fun fact, benzoyl peroxide (neither BHA or AHA) works as both as oxidizer and antibacterial, generating free radicals to kill Cutibacterium acnes and promote peeling. Can be useful here and there if you really need to kill off a pimple fast.

Bad memories from your youth? Just know these acids are not your only option, and can sometimes make things worse if overused, as hyperkeratosis (thickening and roughening of the skin) can result from chronic or purposeful minor inflammation. So let’s keep peroxide and carbonyl compounds in the lab, and be judicious in our use of acids, ok?

Cell turnover actives

Retinol, retinal, and retinoids all increase cell turnover. Faster cell turnover means fewer clogged pores, or comedones. Turnover also stimulates collagen growth, which helps the pore “rim” keep its shape (yes, lol, we are tightening the rim).

Barrier‑supporting actives

You’ve heard me mention Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) plenty on Nice Packaging, because it regulate sebum and reduces inflammation to sooth and smooth the epidermis, which means you will be less likely to overuse chemical exfoliates in the first place.

There are also lipid modulating ingredients like tea tree oil and Vitamin C, which support smooth skin texture and ease spot darkening that can occur post breakout from hyperpigmentation.

There is also a whole world of peptides which help your skin retain firmness and shape, so pores stay tighter and avoid sagging and collapse. There are a lot of categories of peptides, each of which do different things. The signal peptides (a popular version is palmitoyl pentapeptide‑4, branded as Matrixyl) help indicate the need for repair to your body. A carrier peptide binds and transports molecules, usually a trace metal like copper to get them where they are needed.

There are also neurotransmitter peptides (sometimes called Botox-like), which reduce acetylcholine release to help limit expression‑line depth, sensitive‑skin & barrier support peptides, mostly in the acetyl family to reduce stinging and redness, and structural peptides (like tetra‑ and tripeptides) for dermal architecture support.

And finally, hydrating agents like hyaluronic acid and squalene help improve plumpness and light reflection, which gives the visual effect of smaller pores.

Absorbents

A final category worth considering are absorbents like the mineral perlite or clays like kaolin and bentonite. Activated charcoal can also bind surface impurities and oils, which can provide a temporary effect. These are generally used in masks, but also sometimes in cleansers.

The Routines

These are modular routines: one acid‑leaning cleanser, treatment steps that include niacinamide & vitamin C serums, one retinoid for evenings, one barrier moisturizer, and one daily SPF, with alternate picks for oily versus drier more sensitive skin.

As we are doing a pore-focused routine, we want to pair a gentle keratolytic cleanser with leave-on acids, sebum-modulating niacinamides, retinoids at night, and barrier-supportive moisturizers, plus a daily sunscreen.

Basic “Cheap and Chic” Pore-less Routine

A drugstore price point pore-less routine, featuring global favorite CeraVe

Morning

  • Start by cleansing with either

    • CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser ($16) – with salicylic acid, ceramides, niacinamide; gentle BHA plus barrier support, this is good for normal–oily or congestion‑prone skin.​

    • or, if you have more sensitive skin, try COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser ($14) – this has a mild BHA derivative, low pH, works well as a non-stripping AM cleanse for combination and sensitive types.

Evening

  • Start by cleaning with CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser ($16) or CeraVe Acne Control Blemish Control Cleanser ($19)

  • Next, we treat – on retinoid nights (primary for cell turnover and pore normalization), use one of the following

    • CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum ($25) – with encapsulated retinol, ceramides, and niacinamide to reduce irritation, this is a good entry to mid‑level option for those new to retinol and where you should start 2 times a week till adjusted to daily use).

    • Differin (adapalene 0.1% gel) ($20) is for acneic, highly comedone‑prone patients needing a true retinoid to help with stronger normalization of keratinization.​​ Please only consider using this very strong treatment if you are experience very clogged, constantly congested skin and consider checking with a dermatologist. This is what the brand uses on its website to show an appropriate candidate before and after.

  • Finally, moisturize your skin with CeraVe PM ($20) as the default barrier-restoring night cream with ceramides, niacinamide, and humectants. This can be used after retinol use, or on its own

Good Enough “80% Of The Way” Pore-less Routine

This is a Pareto optimal, “80% of The Work” Pore-less Routine that fits into the “better” tier of our good/better/best – think Sephora, rather than drugstore. You will rotate in retinols 2 times a week at night to begin and can build up to every day, depending on your tolerance. On nights without retinol, you can use acid treatments. This routine heavily features Paula’s Choice, which I regularly use myself, even though I have dry skin.

Morning

Evening

  • Clean with the same Paula’s Choice Perfectly Balanced Foaming Cleanser ($26) from the morning

  • Treat on non‑retinoid nights (aka exfoliant nights) with the following – this should be 2-4x/week, depending on skin tolerance:

    • Sunday Riley Good Genes ($122) – can be used as a leave‑on lactic acid treatment for texture and pigment control with 2-3 drops, or layer on as a 10 minute face mask ​

    • If your skin is persistently red and rosacea prone, in addition to experiencing breakouts, consider Beauty Pie Happy Face 10% Azelaic Acid Gel Cream ($22) – this is a super star gel or azelaic acid in general for soothing as it will help you tolerate the acids and the retinols better.

  • On retinoid nights, primarily for cell turnover and pore normalization, use

    • Beauty Pie Super Retinol Serum Ceramide Boost ($29) this is a gentle encapsulated retinol with ceramides to reduce irritation. Use a pea sized amount until adjusted and slowly get to daily use. Can upgrade to stronger retinols from here

    • Differin (adapalene 0.1% gel) ($20) is for acneic, highly comedone‑prone patients needing a true retinoid to help with stronger normalization of keratinization.​​ Please only consider using this very strong treatment if you experience very clogged, constantly congested skin. It is a pharmaceutical grade product that will turn over your skin by force. You’ve been warned.

  • Finally, moisturize

Top of The Line Pore-less Routine

These are all best of breed products from luxury line SkinCeuticals (and Beauty Pie’s Swiss lab Youth Bomb line) that can cost a lot. You can rotate in retinols 2 times a week at night to begin, and build up to every day, depending on your tolerance. During the day you will use acid treatments and strong sun protection. Want to try some of the SkinCeuticals world out more cost effectively? SkinMarket has the SkinCeuticals Adult Acne lineup for $205.

Morning routine

  • Cleanse with SkinCeuticals LHA Cleanser ($45)- I feel like the SNL club promoter Stefan, but this has everything including 12% concentration of lipo-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and glycerin.

Night routine

  • Clean with the same SkinCeuticals LHA Cleanser ($45) from the morning routine

  • Next, for treatments, we’ll split between “retinoid” and “non-retinoid” nights. 2-4 times a week, depending on tolerance, we’ll do a non‑retinoid night to emphasize exfoliants:

  • On retinoid nights (primarily for cell turnover and pore normalization), use either

  • Finally, moisturize with either